Selecting a puppy is often a matter of deciding which pup most likely
fits your personality. For example, if at seven and eight weeks of age a
Labrador Retriever puppy is running around as fast as he can, grabbing your
pant leg, crashing into you when you’re down on your knees, jumping up
into your face, or grabbing at your hand when you try to pet him, then you
can be certain this puppy will be a handful. Another Labrador puppy in that
same litter may be quiet, may come to you slowly at first, and may lick your
hand or face. This pup will be easier to train, and because he’s a Labrador,
you know he will become sufficiently lively when he is acquainted with his
new home. Which pup is best for you? Perhaps you prefer a pup that isn’t
always fussing for attention. An independent pup that is busy sniffing, not
caring whether he’s petted, might develop into the type of dog you would
want once you have bonded to each other.
Many breeders have puppies that are reserved ahead of time, with each
person getting a pick in order. For example, you might have the third-pick
female because two people reserved a pup before you did. Another person
might have fourth-pick male (if there are that many). It might seem that you
won’t get the pup that’s best for you, but the breeder often helps match
puppies and people, and it’s amazing how the pups seem to go to the most
suitable homes. Many breeders use puppy testing and their own evaluations
to match puppies and people. You can also use your own guidelines. See the
Appendix on Puppy Temperament Testing.
Observation of a pup with his littermates sometimes gives a false
impression of the pup’s innate desire to please and to adjust to people.
Never select a puppy based on his behavior with his littermates. Remove
him from the litter and play with him individually. Observations made by an
inexperienced buyer on only one visit may not accurately reflect the true
puppy—the hell-raiser might be tired, and the wallflower may have just
awakened and may be feeling his oats. More than one observation, the
breeder’s opinions, and testing will give a better rounded picture and may
prevent a mismatch.
If you have the pick between two or three puppies, carry one puppy away
from the litter, far enough so that the pup can’t see or hear his littermates. Is
the pup curious, wagging his tail, and exploring? Is he worried and trying to
return to the litter? Can you attract his attention by clapping your hands, or
by bending down close to him and having him run to you? Does he follow
you when you walk past and coax him? Does the pup look at you when you
hold him close and talk to him? Roll the pup on his back and hold him
gently. Read the score sheet in the Appendix to evaluate his reaction. The
final decision on your part might be an emotional one, but part of that
selection process is based on how you react to the puppy on a one-to-one
basis. The puppy that you don’t want is the shy pup that wants to run and
hide or the aggressive puppy that nips at you when you try to play with him.
When You Can’t Visit the Litter
You will have to trust the breeder if you can’t visit the litter. Ask all
the questions you can think of. Tell the breeder the type of puppy you want,
then rely on the breeder to make the final decision. Many breeders require a
deposit if you want a puppy held for you. The remaining payment is made
when you pick up the puppy, or just before shipping. You should receive the
puppy litter registration at this time or a written promise that it soon will be
in the mail.
Deciding on the Best Age
Many breeders have considered seven weeks to be the ideal age for a
puppy to leave his littermates and go to his new home—never younger.
Others prefer to keep their puppies in the litter until ten weeks of age. Some
states now have a law that prohibits selling a puppy before eight weeks of
age. There is a federal regulation that a puppy can’t be shipped by air before
eight weeks of age. Because of the eight-week fear period, it is best to wait
until the puppy is nine or ten weeks of age. It is advisable for the buyer to
be guided by the experience of the breeder. The main concern for the new
owner is to be certain that the pup has received sufficient individual
attention and puppy training from the breeder.
The Older Puppy
If you are considering a puppy that is twelve weeks or older, you need to
get two assurances from the breeder. First, the puppy must have been taken
out of his pen on a regular basis to experience different environments;
otherwise, kennel shyness may develop. Second, the puppy must have spent
time alone with a person on a regular basis (for example, fifteen minutes a
day, four or five days a week); if not, his socialization will be retarded, and
much time and effort will be necessary to bring the pup around to a normal
attitude toward people and other dogs. If these two aspects have been taken
care of by the breeder—in other words, if the puppy training has begun—
you can do just fine by buying an older puppy.
Don’t Take Home Two
If you want two puppies, wait until the first pup is five to six months old
before bringing home the second. By this time, the pup will have bonded to
you and will be comfortable spending more time alone in his yard or house
area. The problem with littermates is that the initial bonding is to each other
rather than to you. If they have each other, neither pup will give you his full
attention. This makes training almost impossible. Contemporary research in
dog behavior indicates that puppy-human bonding is essential to a superior
relationship. It’s a very rare person who can induce bonding with more
than one puppy at a time.
Other Considerations
Unfortunately, some individuals raise puppies only for what financial
gain they might experience, and they care nothing about the needs of the
puppies. Don’t hesitate to ask for specific information. Get a detailed
report of what care and activities have been done with the puppies, and find
out how knowledgeable the person is about the characteristics and history
of the breed. If the breeder seems lacking in any of these areas, don’t fall
victim to a hard sell. These people should not be encouraged to perpetuate
their puppy activities. They do more harm than good for the dog world.
There are many conscientious and reliable breeders who breed and raise
puppies with great care. Take the time to find the right one. A good
breeder will tell you why he did this particular breeding and will share with
you his expectations for the litter.
We have the advantage of raising and training dogs in a time when much
has been discovered about the basic developmental periods of a puppy’s
life. This is very exciting. We can take what heredity gives us and then
control the environment to develop the best possible personality in the adult
dog.
